It was over 10 degrees, and beautifully warm in the sun. It hadn't rained all week, and felt like a warm day in autumn. So nice to feel the rock under hand again.
I went with Thomas, Ilse, and David to the Malamute. The ocean was crystal clear, and no wind to speak of. We did some easy slab to warm up on 3 Stooges, and then Dave and I took a shot at Science Friction.
Its a crazy balancy and technical 11d corner. Lots of secret hold around the corner, laybacking a rounded arrete with feet smearing on tiny crystals... very fun! It was pretty slow the first time, but I got to the top in less than a half-dozen falls second time around, that's progress. The first time doesn't bear thinking about, but lets say Dave is a patient belayer.
Andy Cairns was out doing some circuits on the route left of us, and taking pictures, and sent me a few. Very nice of him, and its great to have climbing pictures that aren't taken from the ground!
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