Routes to do, Thailand

The guide books are pretty weak on recommendations for routes, here are the routes you should do, IMHO, when you go.

3-star routes are ones I'd make sure I do again if I had the chance, 2-star are ones I'm really happy I did, 1-star and 0-star aren't in this list.

For the record, I like long continuous routes with interesting features and fun moves, but some routes make the list because of positioning (right off the beach, for example). 

• Banana Hammock, 6a+, The Nest **
• Dozer Days, 6c, The Nest ***: good roof, hard face moves, cool stemming to stalactites
• Groove Tuby, 6a, Fire Wall **: easy climb up a chimney, but great positioning
• Missing Snow, 6b+, Tyrolean **: neat melting wax rock
• Smoking Room, 6c, Melting Wall ***: roof, stalactites, stemming, powerful at times, overhanging, its got it all
• Cross-Eyed, 7b, Melting Wall ***: crazy huecos, big dynos, powerful slightly overhanging face, and fine positioning
• I no speak England, 6b+, Tonsai **
• Land of smiles, 7a/7b, Happy Island ***: crazy complex crux over this weird blob on an otherwise blank wall, and continuous hard and delicate climbing above
• Don't worry, be happy, 6a+, Happy Island ***: Julie really liked this, I didn't do it. Get a boost to the first bolt!
• King Cat, 6c, Cat Wall ***: so overhanging, its hard to believe its climbable, but it is!
• the 6a's on Cobra Wall **
• Circus Oz, 6a*, Thaiwand ***: long and fun
• The King and I, 7a, Thaiwand: long, fun, intimidating, lots of endurance and then powerful
• Fit to be Thaid, 6a+, Thaiwand ***
• Beauty and the Beast, 6a+, Tonsai **: deep breath, and let yourself fall out to the stalactite, fun!
• Heart of Darkness, 6c+/7a, Cat Wall ***: 5 pitches of fun climbing, continuous at the grade, and a beautiful mid-height belay ledge to look out over the bay from, and goes right to the top of the wall (unlike most multipitch down there)
• Humanlity, 6b+, Tonsai **: overrated, its got a nasty start, some boring pitches, and a stellar move at midheight, despite this its right over the beach so wins based on positioning
• Love for Travelling, 7a+/6c, Tonsai ***: funky moves, deep pockets, stemming, chimneying, roofs and cracks, great!
• Monkey Love, 6b, Thaiwand **
• Mala Mujer, 6b, Thaiwand ***: long and fun
• Fire Starter, 6c+, Fire Wall **
• Burnt Offerings, 7a+, Fire Wall ***: great photos, good moves over an improbable cave mouth
• Beauty and the Beast, 6b, Monkey World ***: first pitches are ok, but the last is a full 30 metres of continuously fun and interesting stemming, chimneying, face, tufas, etc., great Thai limestone!
• Lion King, 6c+, Dum's Kitchen ***: f'ing hard for the grade, but fun, and gets an extra star for coming straight off the beach
• Caroline's Last Day, 6a, The Nest **: fun chimney, and Wee's guidebook is wrong, it's been rebolted with titanium glue-ins
• Big Wave, 6b, Monkey Wall ***: first pitch is ok, but next 3 pitches are uniformly fabulous, differ from each in character, and it goes to just 10 feet short of the top! Great route, great view.

That's it. And thanks to Colin for suggesting King Cat and Heart of Darkness!